If corn and/or wheat are one of the first 3-4 ingredients, choose another brand containing rice or barley. Some people want no grain at all in their dog's diets, but my dogs like chicken and rice combinations the best. I like the Nutro brand, but don't be fooled by big brand names, big prices, or those automatically endorsed by your vet. Corn has a high glycemic index, which means it causes more of a sudden spike and subsequent drop in blood sugar than other grains such as rice or barley. This can be deadly to smaller-sized and younger puppies, more specifically teacups and tiny toys, as their tiny internal organs are just not equipped to handle this, causing hypoglycemia. Also, corn is known to be allergenic in many dogs, manifesting in "hot spots," hives, itchy ears, and paws, ultimately compromising the entire immune system.
Here's a video showing one of my poodles brushing his own teeth. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ln5f4bSAkAE But you should really take charge of the technique. Smaller dogs can have more dental problems. No dog, big or small, should have bad breath. None of mine do because I clean their teeth on a regular basis from twice a week to every 6 months depending on the need. Your vet can clean their teeth but the dogs are put under general anesthesia for this. You could avert the danger anesthesia poses to your poodle, and the expense it poses to you if you would just take the time to get your poodle used to have his mouth handled. At first, this can be done gently with a washcloth wrapped over your index finger and just rubbing his front gums at first. Gradually, he will allow you to go over his molars way in the back. Then choose one of the many doggie toothbrushes/pastes on the market.
Some doggie treats and toys are not appropriate for poodles. My poodles love squeaky toys, but only those made of soft, stretchy latex (like rubber), not vinyl. My favorite training treat is Liver-Flavored Charlee Bears. My poodles drool over them!
Over hundreds of years, poodles were bred first as a hunting dog, then as a lap dog. They naturally love fresh air, but they are pack animals by nature and were also bred to love the company of humans indoors, so allow them to love you, and enjoy the most intelligent canine company you can imagine!
I am always here if you need me, but if a problem develops with your poodle's behavior, please look inward to yourself first. Cesar Millan, the Dog Whisperer, always says "It's never the dog's fault." Consult a trainer, if necessary. Housetraining problems, for instance, are usually due to the owner's inconsistency and lack of attention. Things, like a poodle's pulling on the leash, barking, or even chewing up your new Prada pumps, are not their fault, but your own for leaving tasty shoes in their path. Your new little poodle has a lot to learn from you, but you are also on a learning journey yourself! Get a good start with socializing by following some of the tips in this video:
I WELCOME YOUR QUESTIONS ABOUT THE CARE AND HEALTH OF YOUR POODLE.
With my knowledge of medicine, I responsibly breed poodles with more integrity than some human beings take with themselves. I do not knowingly breed any poodle that carries a genetic defect. My founding father stud dogs have been tested for PRA (progressive retinal atrophy) which is a rare but inherited disease, and so far, none of them are even carriers of that disorder. However, statistically, genes can pair up unpredictably causing other medical defects.
1. Vaccination Schedule: Our pups get vaccinated at 8, 11, 14, and 20 weeks and then yearly with Distemper, Adenovirus type 2, Parainfluenza, Parvovirus, and Coronavirus. I suggest that poodle puppies get their first rabies vaccination when they are around 6 months of age (unless they are flying on a plane when it should be sooner), as the rabies shot is harsher on their little systems. We do not release our poodles until they have at least their first vaccination and discourage all pet owners from exposing their puppies to the public until their first three shots are given.
2. With regard to any congenital defect, I guarantee all puppies for one (1) year (from date of birth) to be free of but not limited to grade III/IV Patellar Luxation, Leg Perthes, Hip Dysplasia, Cataracts, Epilepsy/Seizures, Tracheal Collapse causing death, or heart or liver ailments. Unless a male puppy is approved by me to be used for breeding purposes with my written breeding contract, undescended testicles are not covered under my health warranty. When my poodles are released from my care at 10 weeks of age, due to their size and age testicles are very often unpalpable.
3. Any inherited, life-threatening medical illness experienced by any puppy is warrantied from one (1) to five (5) years of age (from date of birth).
4. Poodles older than one (1) year of age who have been taken back into my home according to my lifetime guarantee (see that on my Home Page), are no longer covered under my health warranty in a new, second home as they lived away from me for an extended period of time. (I cannot be responsible for them while they were away from my care.) However, I am always available to triage and discuss their care and also continue to offer the lifetime warranty, that is to take the poodle back should the new owners choose.
5. Physical injuries and trauma occurring outside of my custody are not warrantied under any condition.
6. The untimely death of any puppy up to 5 years of age will always require a death certificate and autopsy by a competent Veterinary Pathologist prior to any assumption of liability.
7. All toy poodle puppies are extremely susceptible to hypoglycemia. This is especially true for those puppies that may be smaller than a typical toy such as a teacup (less than 4 pounds as an adult) or tiny toy (less than 6 pounds). Each and every puppy I place is accompanied by explicit instructions relative to the prevention of and treatment of hypoglycemia. For this reason, I cannot accept any liability for any losses of any nature as a result of this condition. Please be diligent and aware of this condition. I also make myself available any time for questions about your new puppy, so don't hesitate to ask.
8. Should a settlement relative to any of the conditions listed in my warranty become necessary, I reserve the right to resolve any problem by the following means and with the stipulations listed below:
a. Replace the poodle based on the findings of MY local veterinarian following his/her consultation with the client's veterinarian. b. Any puppy replacement or refund should never be determined unilaterally; it can only occur after both seller and buyer agree with the decision. c. In the event that surgical or medical procedures are performed prior to consultation with Valerie Stanol, all prior warranties and guarantees are null and void. d. Provide surgical intervention to resolve the medical defect under the following conditions: (1). Any needed surgery will only be performed following consultation with MY local veterinarian who will determine whether the procedure is truly indicated, or if he/she would normally perform the procedure. (2). Should surgery be required and agreed upon by the various consulting veterinarians, I will pay up to half of all medical costs up to the original purchase price of the poodle. (For example, if the poodle was purchased for $800 and surgery was $1200, I would pay $600. If the surgery were to be $4000, I would pay a maximum of $800.) (3). Under no circumstance or condition will I assume any liability for any surgery or medical procedure unless said surgery or medical procedure is performed only after consultation and concurrence with Valerie Stanol.
Revised June 1, 2007
I price my poodles according to size, sex, and color. Special price consideration is given to proven show homes. The price for my poodles starts at $1500 and up including AKC registration (pet or full, depending upon our agreement) and my full health warranty which protects your investment. The price all depends on male or female, the shade of red, and predicted adult size. Keep in mind that puppies don't always take after their parents in color or size. I have very high-quality pedigrees which go for much higher prices elsewhere. There is often a waiting list for red females as this is the most requested type. The teacup size (less than 4 pounds full grown) costs more for the extra time and special care they get. I usually also keep the teacup-size puppies longer, up to 4-5 months, before I allow them to go to new homes so I may acutely observe them for any health problems. They are a bit more fragile in the beginning and so higher risk. If something were to happen to them, I'd rather they be in my care than yours. This will help ensure you have a very healthy puppy. Beware of any breeder selling or shipping younger teacup puppies. Please be advised that teacups are not to be used for breeding as it is dangerous to their health.
Puppies are transferred only when payment is received in full. At that time, you will receive your puppy's proof of deworming, vaccination, including the actual stickers off of their vaccinations, dates given, and approximate dates of future vaccinations your puppy will need. Your AKC puppy registration will be sent to you after you send me veterinary confirmation of your puppy's spay or neuter.
We accept cash, Paypal or Venmo. No personal or cashier's checks, please.
Please be aware that some poodle websites have an "ordering" page. It's not as simple as that. Not everyone can have one of my poodles. I will first need to see what kind of a perfect/loving home you can provide for one of my kids, uh, poodles. I also prefer to keep in touch with you with open, honest communication. This way you will get my help throughout the life of your poodle, and I get to see them grow up and share your stories. They'll always be my kids out there!
I only ship within the United States, not out of this country. Shipping pets in temperature and oxygen-controlled compartments is safer than it has been in the past. Airlines now prohibit live pet cargo in any airport including layovers to only within 35-85 degrees.
I am no longer able to ship for free but when the temperature allows shipping is only $200 extra to your airport. That covers my costs for the veterinarian examination, all appropriate vaccinations required to fly, veterinarian's certificate to fly, a suitably sized airlines-approved puppy crate, flight insurance, and airfare.